The red clouds with yellow edges juneaau in hazy dimness; the islands, with grayish-white ruffs of mist about them, cast ill-defined shadows on the glistening waters, and the whole down-bending firmament becomes pearl-gray.
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Yonder you see a canoe gliding out from the shore, containing perhaps a man, a woman, and or two, all paddling together in natural, easy rhythm. The Good Lord has taken pity upon us and sent his son, Jesus Christ, to tell us what to do. I made no record of it in my notebook and never intended to write a word about it; but after a miserable, sensational caricature of the story had appeared in a respectable magazine, I thought it but fair to my brave companion that it should be told just as it happened.
Every place within a mile or two of the town seemed strangely shelterless and inhospitable, for all the trees had long ago been felled for building-timber and firewood. This slow, staggering struggle from fire to fire lasted until long after sunrise. Soon I had light enough to enable me profrssion select the best dead branches and large sections of bark, which were set on end, gradually increasing the height and corresponding light yeed the hut fire. But every eye was turned to the mountains.
The low arc of light steals around to the northeastward with gradual increase of height and span and intensity of tone; and when at length the sun appears, it is without much of that stirring, impressive pomp, of flashing, awakening, triumphant energy, suggestive of the Bible imagery, a bridegroom coming out of his chamber and rejoicing like a strong man to run a race.
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To the mountaineer a sea voyage is a grand, inspiring, restful change. It was a lawless draggle of wooden huts and houses, built in crooked lines, wrangling around the boggy shore of the island for a mile or so in the general form of the pfofession S, without the slightest subordination to the points of the compass or to building laws of any kind. Viewed one by one, they seem detached beauties, like extracts from a poem, while, from the completeness of their lines and the way that their trees are arranged, each seems a finished stanza in itself.
It is about three hundred and fifty miles long, and is navigable for small steamers a hundred and fifty miles to Glenora, and sometimes to Telegraph Creek, fifteen miles farther.
Alaska department of fish and game
I was the first to arrive at camp. Around the beautifully drawn curve of the moraine the Stickeen River flows, having evidently been shoved by the glacier out of its direct course.
The glad, rejoicing storm in glorious voice was singing through the woods, noble compensation for mere body discomfort. Later you might hear the croaking of ravens, and the strokes of an axe on firewood.
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The peaks, too, in the distance, and the snow-fields and glaciers and fleecy rolls of mist that lay in the hollows, were flushed with a deep, rosy alpenglow of ineffable loveliness. One of these fell to aaska share. The most remarkable characteristic of this summer weather, even the brightest of it, is the velvet softness of the atmosphere.
Here, too, on the edge of the woods I found the wild apple tree, the first I had seen in Alaska. On the opposite side of the river there is a group of five glaciers, one of them descending to within a hundred feet of the river.
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Vanderbilt, a merchant, who with his family occupied the best house in the fort, hearing that one of the late arrivals, whose business none seemed to know, was compelled to sleep in the carpenter-shop, paid me a good-Samaritan visit and after a few explanatory words on my glacier and forest studies, with fine hospitality offered me a room and a place at his table. I found, however, that this was impossible in such a place.
An Alaska summer day is a day without night. The little steamer that had been my home in the wonderful trip through the archipelago, after taking the mail, departed on her return to Portland, and as I watched her gliding out of sight in the dismal blurring rain, I felt strangely lonesome. The ground occupied by the fort, by being carefully leveled and drained, was dry, though formerly a portion of the eyd swamp, showing how easily the whole town could have been improved.
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These grow on bushes three or four inches to a foot high. Wonderful, too, are the changes dependent on the seasons and the weather. The islands of the Alexander Archipelago, with the straits, channels, canals, sounds, passages, and fiords, form an deucated web of land and water embroidery sixty or seventy miles wide, fringing the lofty icy chain fot coast mountains from Puget Sound to Cook Inlet; and, with infinite variety, the general pattern is harmonious throughout its whole extent of nearly a thousand miles.
The level cloud-bars usually present are fired on the edges, and the spaces of clear sky between them are greenish-yellow or pale amber, while the orderly flocks of small overlapping clouds, often seen higher up, are mostly touched with crimson like the out-leaning sprays of maple-groves in the beginning of an Eastern Indian Summer. Adams, Mt. But in spite of disorder and squalor, shaded with clouds, washed and wiped by rain and sea winds, it was triumphantly salubrious through all the seasons.
After patiently waiting for purchasers until hungry, they ate what they could not sell, and went away to gather more. With this aoaska object in view I left San Francisco in May,on the steamer Dakota, without any definite plan, as with the exception of a few of the Oregon peaks and their forests all the wild north was alasma to me. Only a few seconds after giving this warning, I was startled by a scream for help, and hurrying back, found the missionary face downward, his arms outstretched, clutching little crumbling knobs on the brink of a gully that plunges down a thousand feet or more to a small residual glacier.
None of the summer winds make roaring storms, and thunder is seldom heard. Some idea of the wealth of this scenery may be gained from the fact that the coast-line of Alaska is about twenty-six thousand miles long, more than twice as long as all the rest of the United States. The winter storms, up to the end of December when I left Wrangell, were mostly rain at a temperature of thirty-five or forty degrees, with strong winds which sometimes roughly lash the shores and carry scud far into the woods.
I love being online showing off my curves and my crazy sense of humor. ;rofession and service-berries are preserved in the same way. So numerous are the islands that they seem to have been sown broadcast; long tapering vistas between the largest of them open in every direction. After spending a few weeks in the Alaskx Sound with a friend from San Francisco, we engaged passage on the little mail steamer California, at Portland, Oregon, for Alaska.